2018 F150 2.7 valve job quote

Rico888

Rico888

Well-Known Member
Thought I'd ask some of you guys and get your feedback on what a valve job on a 2018 f150 2.7 should cost.

Took my truck in for diagnostics as I have had an intermittent stumble at idle after the truck has been warmed up.

Diagnostic report is attached.

What really took me by surprise was the quote of 30hrs to get the job completed for an estimated job total of almost $10K

Mind you, this is not for new OEM heads....this is sending both heads out for valve service and putting it all back together....

I have a hard time wrapping my head around a $10K valve job...

Anyone have any ideas as to what a fair price would be?

Just seemed a bit rich to me....thanks

F150 diagnostic report.jpg
 

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a reman 2.7 engine with 3 yr unlimited mileage warranty is ~$6500 plus shipping that includes returning your core. I know Ford has longblocks available that come with similar warranty but their dealer labor rate is ridiculous.
 
Is money an issue? Do you mind doing an engine swap yourself? Drive it until it dies. Put money aside for a used head, or engine, or junkyard engine, or reman/new engine.

All will be cheaper than that quote.
 
I’d check O’Reilly for a complete long block and swap the engine myself. You can rent and/or buy every tool necessary and come out way ahead. I engine swapped my Silverado in a couple easy days.
 
Unfortunately at $190/hr most things won't make sense to repair. I'm sure just removing the head and reinstalling is easily 15-18hrs book time, and probably takes longer than this unless thye're doing these regularly. So I'd expect to pay 20hrs. If valves are recessed in the head it's going to require cutting out the seats and installing/cutting new seats. You KNOW the machinist is going to want to put new valves in it to feel good about standing behind that kind of work long term.

I bet if you shopped around you could find this job being done for about $5500-6000. But even at that price, does it make sense? Guess it depends on how much the truck's worth etc etc.

Also might be worthwhile to spray some shit down the intake to see if you can get the valve seats cleaned up without disassembly. Sometimes (especially on DI engines) carbon buildup can get stuck to the seat and cause big leakage and misfires. Some good cleaner may be enough to loosen the carbon and allow it to pass the seat restoring some leakdown/compression
 
nlzmo400r said:
Unfortunately at $190/hr most things won't make sense to repair. I'm sure just removing the head and reinstalling is easily 15-18hrs book time, and probably takes longer than this unless thye're doing these regularly. So I'd expect to pay 20hrs. If valves are recessed in the head it's going to require cutting out the seats and installing/cutting new seats. You KNOW the machinist is going to want to put new valves in it to feel good about standing behind that kind of work long term.

I bet if you shopped around you could find this job being done for about $5500-6000. But even at that price, does it make sense? Guess it depends on how much the truck's worth etc etc.

Also might be worthwhile to spray some shit down the intake to see if you can get the valve seats cleaned up without disassembly. Sometimes (especially on DI engines) carbon buildup can get stuck to the seat and cause big leakage and misfires. Some good cleaner may be enough to loosen the carbon and allow it to pass the seat restoring some leakdown/compression
Click to expand...

Book time is 30 hours, i wouldnt touch it for 6k nor want anyone that would doing it.
The only way id be involved with that repair at my shop would be with a Ford engine and doing a full replacement. that way any warranty issues belong to ford whom built the shit in the first place.
 
ducnut said:
I’d check O’Reilly for a complete long block and swap the engine myself. You can rent and/or buy every tool necessary and come out way ahead. I engine swapped my Silverado in a couple easy days.
Click to expand...

Recently did a warranty repair on one of those engines that was smoking and using oil. They left a oil ring off when assembling....
really doubt ATK would even do a 2.7 Ford.
 
This...... also some hi-dollar intake cleaner thru the fuel. A bottle @ 1/4 tank and run the shit outta it..

Also might be worthwhile to spray some shit down the intake to see if you can get the valve seats cleaned up without disassembly. Sometimes (especially on DI engines) carbon buildup can get stuck to the seat and cause big leakage and misfires. Some good cleaner may be enough to loosen the carbon and allow it to pass the seat restoring some leakdown/compression[/QUOTE]
 
nlzmo400r said:
Also might be worthwhile to spray some shit down the intake to see if you can get the valve seats cleaned up without disassembly. Sometimes (especially on DI engines) carbon buildup can get stuck to the seat and cause big leakage and misfires. Some good cleaner may be enough to loosen the carbon and allow it to pass the seat restoring some leakdown/compression
Click to expand...

That' seems like a really good idea to me. I don't know this motor, to know anything about the common problems, but do know carbon can get on the valve seats and mess with valve closing.
 
This thread got me to thinking about my 2013 F150 with a 3.5EB. I want to keep it forever, and it only has 100k on it, but at some point it will need a timing chain and other items I would imagine.

I checked prices on reman long blocks, and I can get them all day long for $6k. Instead of doing all of that maintenance work, I’ll just replace the entire motor which will give me a fresh timing chain, valve train, rings, bearing, seals, etc.
 
Get a borescope and have a look-see, if you think carbon is causing a valve to hang open on that cylinder. If that is the cause, it will burn that valve sooner or later. Then you'll have no compression.
 
Best solution.....report stolen, fire bomb and buy a silverado.

Even if the 5.tree eats a lifter (eff you CAFE standard) you can do it in your garage for like $2k in parts and a couple weekends.
 
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